I'm not a dog owner but I am answering anyway!
Keep him on a tight leash!
He sounds like the whacky fat chihuahua mix who wanted to attack the horse. I saw him today with his owner sitting on the sidewalk reading. The guy with the doberman and mini pin was also there. Those two are a lot friendlier than the little guy.
Dogs that chase cars are at an increased risk for experiencing serious injuries either from running too fast or if they are hit by a car. If your dog is chasing cars, it is important to stop this behavior immediately.
Once car chasing behavior has developed it can be very difficult to stop. Pet owners can try to increase their dog’s level of activities by playing with their dog more often and taking their dog for plenty of walks. If the dog is chasing cars due to boredom, then livening up your dog’s life may stop the behavior.
Dogs that are chasing cars because they believe they are running down prey or protecting their home will need more serious forms of intervention. The best method is to prevent your dog from getting outside where he can chase cars. A secure fenced in back yard and vigilance at the doors may help to prevent any escapes that lead to car chasing.
If a pet owner lives in an area that is impossible to fence, then the best way to prevent their dog from chasing cars is to install an electric fence. Once the dog crosses the invisible boundary when it goes to chase a car, it will receive a mild shock through a collar. While this is not an inexpensive option, veterinarian bills incurred through accidents and injuries from car chasing can be much more expensive.
A professional behavior therapist may also be able to help a dog to stop chasing cars. The therapist will need to spend time at the dog’s home with the dog and the pet owner to instill behavioral modification techniques.
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Because we cannot appeal to our pet’s intellect and discuss the problem of car chasing, we must ensure that each and every instance of chasing culminates in a displeasing (and very humiliating) experience for the dog.
No two dogs are alike in personality and temperament; neither can there be just a single method to accomplish educational lessons for all dogs. Your dog may respond to one particular method and get the message quickly, or you may have to use a combination of several methods, with the schooling taking up to four days. This is because it takes the average dog approximately four to five days to learn one thing.
Consistency is the key and it doesn’t mean selecting one method and sticking to it. Consistency is desired so that each instance of car chasing culminates in an unpleasant consequence, which the dog must be able to relate to its action of chasing the car.
You can’t run out the door, after the fact, or even during the actual chasing, call your dog to you and beat it senseless and expect them to learn anything. If that type of action resulted in learning, it would learn that your command “come” means getting beaten. The dog must be able to relate the consequences to the act of car chasing and nothing else!
Tackling this problem will require time, effort and perhaps some creativity on your part. If you truly love your dog and are concerned for its safety, the safety of others and your personal liability, you’ll devote the next four to five days convincing your dog that car chasing will always end with unpleasant consequences.
Day 1
Tie a length of clothesline rope to your dog’s standard slip-chain training collar. About 35 feet of line will do just fine. Allow the dog to drag the line around the yard. Position yourself close to the end of the dragging line and wait for your “opportunity”.
Act relaxed, but keep one eye on the dog and the other on the end of that line. Do not give any attention to your dog when an automobile approaches, watch for the moment it starts its barking charge. You want your dog’s attention focused entirely on the car during that specific moment.
When that moment has arrived, pick up the end of the line and jerk it as hard as you can, giving it everything you’ve got. This jerk should put a shock into your dog as it is stopped in mid-air. Pull the line and when your dog is at your feet, give the animal an abrupt shaking, enough to give it the message. Verbally shock it as well, with loud, angry words, showing your complete and total displeasure.
The foregoing procedure must be fast accomplished. Remember, the dog must be able to relate this displeasing series of events with its act of chasing the car. If you’re too slow to jerk the line, then the dog’s mind will sidetrack to something else. Just as the timing of the pull is important, so is the importance of your verbal assault, ensuring that it knows you are unhappy with its decision to chase the car.
Day 2
On the second day of training your dog not to chase cars and other moving objects, the exact sequence should be repeated as day one – with the dog dragging the thirty-five foot line. In each instance when an automobile passes without the dog yielding to temptation, he earns your praise, genuine, enthusiastic praise!
Let him get started with his charge before you make a grab for the end of the line. If he detects you moving for the line and breaks off the charge, you must follow through with the sequence, just as if he had gone all the way through the chase behavior. Any dog smart enough to sense a correction coming and modify its actions accordingly, will soon be playing a game of “catch me if you can”.
Your dog must know that any infraction, however slight, automatically brings the full force of the correction. At the conclusion of the day’s lesson, confine the dog away from temptation as before.
Day 3
By the time the third day rolls around, your dog will be getting the idea that you don’t want it chasing cars, that its actions in doing so displeases you greatly and causes you to get angry.
So far, you have made the first breakthrough in communications with education. On the third day, you must broaden this education to include the automobile as an object of displeasure, and tie this in with your displeasure.
You will need the assistance of a friend or neighbor on the third day, who will volunteer to drive their car. You will also need a few additional training aids. Three or four tin cans tied together on a string should be in the front seat beside the driver, along with an empty aluminum soda can with about 10 or so coins inside, and maybe a few water balloons.
Allow your dog to drag the line around the yard while you go inside and out of sight. Watch your pet from a concealed vantage point. As the dog charges the car, the driver should let go of the tin cans (without slowing down). You don’t want the cans to actually strike your dog, but rather scare the animal by the loud clinking noises.
This action is followed immediately you, the dog owner, emerging from your place of concealment, grabbing the line and reeling the dog in for a good shaking and a verbal chewing out.
Meanwhile, the driver circles the block and you should retreat back into the house, leaving the dog alone for the next pass of the automobile. On the second pass and each succeeding pass where the dog makes no attempt to charge the car, you should emerge enthusiastically and give your dog an over-abundance of praise.
If the dog chooses to charge the car, the driver should let go with another shock training aid. Four or five such passes should be all that is necessary. Even if the dog starts to charge, but aborts its goal before it gets close enough for the driver to let go with the tin cans or water balloons, you must emerge from the house, grab the line and verbally correct the dog once more.
You may be asking why should the dog be corrected if it changes its mind in the middle of the charge. In the mind of a dog, things are either black or white. There are no gray areas in between. To a dog an owner who is willing to compromise, is an owner who is willing to surrender unconditionally. Therefore, the dog must be corrected for any overt movement toward passing cars, so that it eventually comes to realize the necessity of ignoring the car altogether.
Day 4
Cut the long line in half and allow the dog to drag about 15 feet of line. Have a member of your family release the dog in the front yard, still dragging his line.
You should position yourself in the backseat of your assistant’s car. Have your driver make as many passes as is necessary to convince you that your dog has kicked the habit, is now reformed and views automobiles with absolute disgust.
The most hardheaded, stubborn dog, which views the short line, and your absence, as a reason to go charging, is in for quite a surprise. At his charge, have your driver stop the car. The shock of you emerging from the car will shock the dog even more than before. Now grab the line, jerk your disobedient dog toward you, making sure that its two front feet leave the ground and remain airborne, while you apply the loudest verbal assault you have even given him.
Really get angry with the dog, making it count!
Keep in mind that this could mean life or death for your dog in the future, so do not feel bad about laying your anger on it, in order to communicate your message.
Remember that there can be no such thing as compromise. Your dog will either associate this experience with displeasure, or not. It’s up to you to make sure that it is as displeasing as humanely possible. Send the dog scampering back into its yard as you get back into the car and drive away.
A Final Word For All Of The ‘Humanitarians’ Out There
For the humanitarians who will gasp and point the accusing finger at this perceived “inhumane” way of training a dog, let us remind you that we are literally training your dog to avoid a bloody, painful, flesh-tearing death. Remember that the dog will always be a victim, the car’s occupants will be shocked and the culprit will always be the dog’s owner.
A few days of jerking your dog by the line, yelling and using shock therapy to create the association of displeasure with a moving vehicle, is nothing compared to your family dog lying on the streets, while motorists drive-by without a care in the world, until finally somebody stops, only to be too late as your lovable canine passes away. Isn’t your dog worth it?
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Rocky, the now deceased (heart attack) white boxer in this building, was once hit by a car; not too serious and he recovered. But he often was kept off leash - which is illegal here.
I would be interested in seeing how Warren Eckstein would handle this. Call his show Saturday afternoon!
Read this link closely, and never say "No" when using your dog's name. That is a primary rule of his:
>>Never use "no" with your dog's name. In other word's, don't say "No, Fido" when correcting him. Your dog's name should always be used for positives.<<
When a dog is misbehaving he usually recommends putting the dog through a series of basic commands, as specified on this link:
>>http://warreneckstein.com/pet-tips/dogtraining.html<<
This is one of his links dealing with bad dog behavior:
>>http://warreneckstein.com/pet-tips/bad.html<<
Read all this stuff; there is a lot. And good luck!